Saturday, June 23, 2007

My Mother's Chicken Cacciatore

That she found in Craig Claiborne's New York Times Cookbook...
This is not only my favourite Cacciatore recipe, it is my favourite way to eat chicken and spaghetti; even though Tyler makes a killer chicken parmesan. It is my mother's secret weapon in her culinary arsenal; and she would often entertain with it. Inevitably, she would rather proudly confide to her guests that the recipe contained vast quantities of alcohol. But don't worry, it boils off during cooking; and you can omit it; but then...
4 pounds chicken, bone in thighs and breasts
1/4 to 1/2 cup all purpose flour for dredging
1/4 cup evoo
2 tbs. shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup dry white wine, my mother always used Chablis
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly cracked black pepper
3/4 cup chicken stock
1/2 of a bay leaf
1/8 tsp. dried thyme OR 3 sprigs fresh
1/8 tsp. dried marjoram
1/2 to 1 cup mushrooms, preferably crimini or baby bellas
1/4 cup Brandy
Begin by dredging the chicken in flour and setting it aside. Pour the olive oil into a skillet large enough to accomodate the chicken - you should also have a lid for this skillet. Heat the oil to medium high and begin by browning the chicken. Remove the chicken and add the mushrooms. Again, the mushrooms should be added on a high heat for a good carmelization, so if you don't hear a good sizzle when they are added, raise your temperature. You may also need to add more oil as the mushrooms love to soak it up. When the mushrooms are carmelized with the heat at medium to medium high add the onions and sweat until translucent. Add the garlic at this point. I usually don't chop garlic because it will burn more easily if it is smaller - and burnt garlic is terribly bitter. I will peel the garlic and then crush it under the side of my knife so it breaks open. Once you smell the garlic, add the tomato paste and let it cook for thirty seconds to a minute. At this point add the wine and scrape up the brown bits clinging to the pan. The wine will evaporate. When there seems to be only one or two tablespoons remaining add the rest of the ingredients, return the chicken to the pan, bring the pan to a slow simmer, cover and cook until the chicken is finished 45 to 60 minutes. I prefer a runny sauce and have, at times, cooked the cacciatore with too much heat thereby thickening the sauce. If this happens you can add water or chicken broth, but taste the sauce for saltiness and adjust. This recipe is best served alongside spaghetti dressed with olive oil.
My brother, Sean, recommended I make wine parings for the recipes I list, but I have to admit that he is much better at something like that than I am. Perhaps he'll contribute and I can post it here. But for now I'll tell you that we had a Toad Hollow, Paso Robles red table wine with our dinner that we enjoyed very much.

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Bomb A** Pork Chops

This recipe came from Jerry Traunfield's Herbfarm Cookbook, a seredipitous purchase in our household that holds the position of The Cookbook. We always turn to him for fantastic recipes. The recipe is easy enough to make after work - seriously. If you are willing to spend a half hour in the kitchen, you can whip these up. And if you are as talented as Tyler you can produce some mashed potatoes with gorgonzola cheese and collard greens boiled then sauteed with garlic and red pepper flakes. He's such a good wife!






Pork Chops with Sage, Onion, and Proscuitto


2 thick-cut loin or rib pork chops (about 1 1/4 inches thick - he suggests 10 to 12 ounces each, but I think ours were smaller)

salt and freshly ground pepper

2 Tbs. evoo

1 large onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh sage

4 ounces thinly sliced proscuitto, cut into 1/4 inch-wide strips

You can substitute bacon for the proscuitto in a pinch.

1 1/2 cups chicken stock

2 tsp. Dijon


Season both sides of the chops with the salt and pepper. Heat the evoo in a large skillet over medium high heat. Brown pork in pan on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Remove chops from pan and set aside. Reduce heat on skillet to medium-low and add the onions and sage. Cook uncovered stirring often until the onion is softened and lightly browned. Stir in the proscuitto and cook until it loses it's color. Add the stock and mustard. Return the pork to the pan, reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and gently simmer the chops until they reach 145F to 150F. You can check with a thermometer. We never do. They take about twenty minutes, and seem to stand up to overcooking. Transfer the chops to a warm plate and raise the heat on the skillet. Boil the sauce until it thickens slightly. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper if neccessary. Serve.



*If substituting bacon for the proscuitto add it to the skillet after the chops are removed. Render the fat on a low heat and cook the bacon until it begins to brown. Now add the onions and sage to brown.

Sunday, June 3, 2007

Last Night's Dinner

We had some good luck last night when we made dinner for our friends. Tandoori chicken, curried green beans, and almond raspberry tart. I am including the recipe for the tart here because it was so gosh darn easy. If you find nice raspberries at the store, I highly recommend it. I found it in last month's issue of Sunset magazine.




Raspberry Almond Tart

The crust of this tart tastes more like a frangipane than a sugar dough and you simply press it into the bottom of the tin - no pesky walls to break. Then pop it in the oven for baking without pastry weights or docking!

Crust

3/4 cup sliced almonds

1/2 cup sugar

1 cup All purpose flour

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 cup butter, chilled and cut into small pieces

1 egg + 1 yolk

1 tsp. almond extract

Preheat oven to 350. In a food processor, pulse almonds and sugar until finely ground, being careful to stop before they turn into nut butter. Add flour and salt and pulse to blend. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. With motor running, add egg, egg yolk, and almond extract. Stop as soon as dough comes together. Press dough into the bottom of the tart tin and bake until golden - about 25 minutes. You may need to turn the tart once if your oven heats unevenly. Let tart cool and remove from tin.

Ganache

3 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped

2 tbsp. cream

This most definitely flies in the face of any ganache I have made, but really the quantities are so small that the method works. Heat chocolate in a bowl or double boiler over steaming water. Make sure the water is never too hot, and remember to stir the chocolate less it burn; and never, never, drip any water into your bowl of chocolate. Once your choclolate has melted add your cream. The chocolate will cool and not readily combine with the cream. Simply continue to stir the mixture over the hot water with a spatula until it all comes to a consistent temperature and combines. Pour ganache on top of cooled crust and spread it out to the edges. You can leave a little crust bare around the edge like a pizza for a better appearance.

Cheesy Goodness

4 oz. mascarpone cheese

1/4 cup + 2 Tbs. powdered sugar

1/2 tsp. vanilla

1/4 cup cream

Beat whipping cream with a whisk in a stand mixer or with any other sufficient kitchen contraption. Once it begins to gain volume but before it has much stiffness add the mascarpone. You will need to turn down the mixer a little until the cheese softens, and it will not combine right away. Give it a moment. As the mixture begins to smooth add the powdered sugar with the beater on low. Once the ganache is set and cooled spread cheese on top of tart.

2 pints raspberries

Decorate tart with lots of raspberries!